My name is Axiang, and I make pearl jewelry in Zhuji — a small city on the eastern coast of China that has been called the world’s pearl capital for as long as anyone can remember. I grew up in the business. My family has been selecting and matching pearls for three generations, and I joined the workshop as soon as I was old enough to hold a pair of tweezers without dropping them.
I started Axiang Atelier in 2018 because I wanted to do something a little different. The pearl industry has long been dominated by men in suits, by catalog photography that flatters the pearls and flatters the buyers, and by price lists that change with the season. I wanted to make a small business that did the opposite — small, honest, and built around the pearls themselves.
Where the pearls come from
About 80 percent of the world’s freshwater pearls are grown in the lakes and rivers around Zhuji. The same waterways have been producing freshwater mussels for over a thousand years. I work directly with four family farms within an hour of the workshop — none of them large, all of them run by people whose names I know. When a pearl comes in, I can usually tell you which farm it came from.
For Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls, I work with trusted brokers who have been supplying our family for two decades. Every pearl that arrives in the atelier has been through at least three hands before mine. By the time it reaches you, it has been seen, sorted, and graded many times over.
What we mean by quality
The pearl industry uses the term “AAA” to describe top-grade pearls, but the meaning varies from seller to seller. For us, AAA means three things: a clear, bright luster with a sharp reflection; a clean surface with no visible blemishes when worn; and a shape that is round or very near-round. If a pearl does not meet all three, it does not make it into a piece of Axiang jewelry — even if it would be acceptable to other workshops.
Every strand of pearls we sell comes with a hand-written card describing the pearl type, size, luster grade, and the date the piece was finished. You will also receive a small care card with washing and storage tips. We believe the more you know about the pearls you wear, the more you will love them.
Why we make what we make
I design jewelry I want to wear myself. That is the simplest test. If I would not wear a piece to lunch, to a meeting, or to a friend’s wedding, I do not make it. The result is a small collection of pearl pieces that feel easy, considered, and worth keeping for years.
Thank you for taking the time to read this. If you have a question about pearls, about a piece you are considering, or about a piece you already own, please write to us. I read every message, and I usually reply within a day.
— Axiang, designer & founder